Lima / Cusco / Machu Picchu / Inca Trail / Arequipa / Puno / Iquitos / Manu / Madre de Dios / Huaraz / Northern Highlands / Northern Coast

The first day of the Inca Trail officially starts at km 88 of the railway line, although many agencies actually begin at km 82, taking a bus rather than the train to the starting point. The distance from both points is roughly the same, and there are official entrances at both. Both trails meet up at Patallaqta, after about 2km following the Urubamba river. This was an important agricultural site, producing food for the Machu Picchu area. From here the trail gently climbs to Huayllabamba, a small village at 3,000m. Many agencies camp here in preparation for the tough climb the following day. Others carry on from here, beginning the climb to the first pass, camping at either Lluchayoc or Llulluchapampa, some way up the slope.

The second day is the toughest of the trail, and the climb up to the first pass is quite strenuous. If you begin at Huayllabamba, it is three to four hours of non-stop climbing, which can be very tiring, especially due to the altitude and the sun beating down on you. It is usually possible to hire a porter from the village to carry your rucksack up to the first pass, which is not a bad idea if you think you will suffer too much. If you have started further up the mountain, the walk to the pass is shorter and therefore less problematic. The first pass at 4,200m, Warmiwañusqa (dead woman’s pass), offers a superb view of the snow-capped Vilcabamba range of mountains. From here you descend into the valley of the Pacamayo River before starting to climb up to the second pass. Halfway to the top of the second pass are the ruins of Runkurakay, a large circular building which was probably a post-house on the trail. The trail then climbs to the second pass at 4,000m before descending the ruins of Sayacmarca, the most impressive on the trail other than Wiñay Wayna and Machu Picchu itself. Most groups camp somewhere around the second pass.

The third day is relatively straightforward, with only gentle climbing. The trail follows the side of the mountain, passing through an Inca tunnel in the mountain, before coming to the third pass, at 4,000m with a superb view of the cloud forest and the Vilcabamba range. Near here are the ruins of Phuyupatamarca, with some fine ritual baths. From here the trail follows the rapidly descending Inca steps to Wiñay Wayna. This path was only discovered in the 1980s, with the Inca Trail skirting round this section before. Almost every group camps by the visitors’ centre near the Wiñay Wayna ruins. It is also possible to sleep in the visitors’ centre, although few of the groups actually do so. There are showers and food available at the centre, as well a shop selling snacks and drinks, including beer.

The ruins of Wiñay Wayna, discovered in 1941 by Paul Fejos, are some of the most beautiful in the Inca Empire, and seeing them for the first time is an amazing experience – perhaps even more so than seeing Machu Picchu for the first time as the image is not as familiar. The site was mainly agricultural, and the curved terraces on an incredibly steep slope are breathtaking. The name Wiñay Wayna comes from a variety of orchid, meaning forever young in Quechua, as the orchid blooms all year round. This orchid is abundant in the area, and you are likely to see many by the sides of the trail.

Apart from the terracing, the site includes a complex of accommodation and ceremonial structures. Next to the structures there is a series of ten baths, joined by small waterfalls. Given the importance of water in Inca ceremonies, this seems to indicate the religious importance of Wiñay Wayna. The location of Wiñay Wayna was probably chosen due to its relationship to certain mountains in the area, including the Apu Veronica.

On the fourth day, the Inca Trail continues from Wiñay Wayna to the Intipunku, although there is also a side trail to the agricultural site of Intipata. Most tours of the Inca Trail set out from Wiñay Wayna before dawn in order to get to the Intipunku (sun gate) for sunrise, a walk of just over an hour. As you climb the final few steps and arrive at the sun gate you are greeted by your first, spectacular view of Machu Picchu. This is truly an awe-inspiring sight, and not even having seen the image in hundreds of photos, or seeing the modern hotel below the ruins, can ruin this moment. The trail down to the ruins themselves takes about half an hour. Most Inca Trail tours include a guided tour of the ruins of Machu Picchu before heading down to the town of Machu Picchu (formerly called Aguas Calientes) where there is time to have a dip in the hot baths before taking the train back to Cusco in the afternoon.

Information used with the kind permission of www.llamatravel.com - holidays to Peru from £799. © Llama Travel Ltd (UK).
Web Site © Peru Tourist Information (Peru)