Lima / Cusco / Machu Picchu / Inca Trail / Arequipa / Puno / Iquitos / Manu / Madre de Dios / Huaraz / Northern Highlands / Northern Coast

Lima is a big, dirty disorganised city. And the climate is generally miserable. Nevertheless, Lima is the social and economic heart of Peru, and any visitor who just passes through the city on the way to Cusco is missing an essential part of the country. It has some excellent museums, which give a perfect introduction to much of the history of the rest of the country. And the historic centre of Lima, a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site, is a fascinating glimpse into the splendid past of what once was the most wonderful city in all the Americas, the City of Kings. Although somewhat decrepit, the centre has been much improved in recent years, and should definitely be visited.

Lima also has the best social scene anywhere in Peru, with excellent nightlife in Barranco and Miraflores, and some world-class restaurants, with prices to match. With all sectors of Peru represented in the city, from the wealthiest classes (with shops and services to serve them) to the poorest, living in dreadful slum conditions, Lima is a true Latin American city. Spending at least a day or two here will help the visitor understand the country better.

The area around Lima was inhabited before the arrival of the Spanish, and there are funeral mounds visible throughout the city, although there is not much to see today. Pachacámac, an important Inca and pre-Inca site on the coast, is located very close to Lima.

Lima was founded on January 18 1535 by Francisco Pizarro. As the original plan had been to found the city on January 6, the epiphany (the day the three kings arrived in Bethlehem), the city was given the title 'The City of Kings'. The original city was founded on the southern bank of the Rímac River (the name Lima is derived from Rímac) and had fewer than 100 inhabitants. The site was chosen for its strategic importance for the invading Spanish army. Close to the sea, and thus to the Spaniards' ships, Lima also offered one of the easiest access routes into the Andes, where Pizarro's original capital, Jauja, was located. The city was also well irrigated by the various rivers flowing through it.

Peru was the centre of the Spanish Empire in South America, and was the home of the Viceroys who ruled over the entire land. Lima was the most important Spanish city in the Americas, with the possible exception of Mexico City, and had fine colonial buildings for the wealthy aristocracy based there. Unfortunately, a massive earthquake in 1746 destroyed much of the city, eliminating most of its beautiful centre. Around this time, the importance of Lima for the Spanish began to wane, and other cities in South America, such as Buenos Aires, increased in importance. Nevertheless, Lima retained its elegance, and most of the buildings destroyed in the earthquake were rebuilt, and can be seen today.

In 1821, on July 28, the Argentine General San Martín entered Lima and declared independence. The Venezuelan Simón de Bolívar became the newly independent country's first president, although he ruled only from 1824 to 1826.

Lima continued to play an important part in the economic development of Latin America after its independence, and the first railway in South America was between Lima and the port of Callao, opened in 1854. However, the city remained relatively small until the beginning of the 20th century, when the population numbered little over 100,000. The urban sprawl that is today's Lima began around this time. The population on average more than doubled every twenty years, and continues to grow rapidly today. This growth was particularly evident in the 1970s and 1980s, as the shanty towns surrounding Lima sprang up to accommodate the mass influx of migrants from the Andes. These were mostly escaping from poverty and the violence of the Shining Path's war with the Peruvian government, which largely played out in poor rural villages.

Lima has not been designed to cope with such large numbers of inhabitants, as can be seen by the complete lack of urban planning. Traffic and pollution are a nightmare, and the centre, for a time, became a dangerous place. The upper and middle classes moved away from this area around the beginning of the 20th century, and settled in the quieter areas of Barranco, Miraflores and Chorillos. In recent years, however, things have improved somewhat. Alberto Andrade, the mayor of Lima, started a campaign to clean up the city, and has moved the street vendors, who plagued the streets of the centre, to more organised markets. The streets have been cleaned up, and many of the buildings restored. Some businesses have moved back to the centre, after abandoning the area, and although parts of the city can still be dangerous, safety in the centre has improved significantly in the past five or ten years.

The end of terrorism and the stabilising of the economy in the early 1990s, as well as the free-market economic policies of Fujimori, attracted much inward investment to Peru, almost all of it concentrated in Lima. Although this has done little to alleviate the poverty endemic in the city and the rest of the country, it has resulted in a sizeable middle class in Lima. Shops and services have sprung up to cater for them, and the city now has shopping centres, cinemas, entertainment complexes and bars to rival any city in the world. Although this cultural homogenisation has led to wealthy young Limeños trying to emulate their US counterparts, Lima still retains a significant chunk of its cultural identity.

The economic development of Lima has not trickled down to all strata of society, with the poor still desperately poor. However, some of the urban improvements of recent years have also spread to certain shantytowns. Although many still remain without basic services, such as electricity and water, others have improved significantly, thanks largely to the settlers' own determination. Villa El Salvador, in the south of Lima, has grown from a population of zero to 350,000 in less than 30 years, almost exclusively populated by campesinos from the Andes. Through organisation and resistance to early government attempts to have them removed, the community is now a shining example of what can be achieved even in the most dire circumstances. There are community centres, sports grounds, parks and libraries throughout the settlement, and education is paramount, with low levels of illiteracy. There is a large industrial park, and parts of the surrounding desert have been irrigated by the residents. Villa El Salvador has won numerous awards and has also been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize.

Attractions

Lima contains many fascinating attractions, including its colonial historical centre, and some excellent museums.

Historic Centre (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

The historic centre of Lima was declared a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site in 1988, and although somewhat decrepit, it is still well worth visiting. The beauty of the city's many fine carved wooden balconies found throughout the city is a joy. These are completely enclosed, allowing the person standing on the balcony to look out through the slats without being seen from the street below. This was to protect the modesty of the women of colonial Lima, who would have been compromised had they been seen by passers by.

The centre of Lima is compact, and can easily be walked around. The best starting place is the Plaza Mayor (*), which used to be known as the Plaza de Armas. The fountain in the centre of the plaza was made by Pedro de Noguera, who was also responsible for the choir stalls in the cathedral. The main building in the Plaza is the Cathedral (**) (7am-10am, after 5pm, free, between 10am and 4.30pm $1.50, including entry to museum). Although this is the only building on the square dating from before the 20th century, the plaza is still an elegant, and traditional, focal point for the city. The Cathedral was completed at the end of the 18th century, after having been destroyed several times by various earthquakes. The exterior, and the interior, of the cathedral are quite dull, although the carved choir stalls are impressive. Pizarro's tomb lies in one of the side chapels. There is a Museum of Colonial Art inside the cathedral. On the right of the Cathedral is the Presidential Palace, built in 1938 on the site of the Viceroy's palace and before that the site of the palace of Taulichusco, a pre-Hispanic ruler of the region. The palace can be visited, although an appointment needs to made in the Edificio Palacio next door. A monument to Taulichusco, a granite rock, stands in the Pasaje Santa Rosa, a pleasant pedestrian street with many pavement cafes. Other buildings on the square include the Archbishop's Palace, with a fine carved balcony (**), and the Town Hall. Next to the Town Hall is a statue of Pizarro.

On Jr. Conde de Superunda, west of the Plaza Mayor, is the Post Office. This has a small stamp museum (entry free) and some beautiful arcades. Further along Jr. Conde de Superunda is the Church and Monastery of Santo Domingo (**) (open 9am-12pm, 3pm-5pm Monday-Saturday, 9am-12pm Sunday, entry $1). This is the oldest church in Lima and is the resting place for San Martín de Porres, the first black saint, and Santa Rosa, the patron saint of Lima. The monastery has some beautiful tiles with biblical scenes, and a series of 36 paintings on the life of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Three blocks further down Jirón Conde de Superunda is the Santuario de Santa Rosa, where the saint's relics are kept, and there is a small adobe hut where the saint is said to have lived. On Jr. Conde de Superunda are some good carved balconies, and the Casa de Osambela (*) a colonial mansion with a pretty cupola and an art gallery with occasional exhibitions. Nearby is the Church and Convent of Las Nazarenas (corner of Av. Tacna and Jr. Huancavelica) where the image of El Señor de los Milagros (the Lord of the Miracles) is found. A powerful earthquake in 1655 destroyed most of Lima, including a church where the image of a Crucified Christ was painted. However, the wall on which the fresco was painted survived the earthquake, and was considered miraculous for this. Every October, which is known as the mes morado (purple month), worshippers dress in purple gowns and the image of the Christ, weighing over a tonne, is carried on the shoulders of the faithful around Lima in one of the world’s largest processions.

The Church of San Agustín (corner of Jr. Ica and Jr. Camaná) is notable for its pretty 18th century facade. The Church of La Merced (corner of Jr. de la Unión and Jr. Miro Quesada) is said to be built on the site where the first Catholic Mass in Lima was held, in 1534. The church suffered earthquake damage, and was largely rebuilt in the 18th century. The Museo del Banco Central de Reserva (***) (corner of Jr. Ucayali and Jr. Lampa, Tel 427 6250, open Tuesday-Friday 9am-4pm, Saturday, Sunday 9am-12.30pm, Free, but ID needed) has an excellent collection of archaeological artefacts from different areas of Peru. The museum also houses an art gallery with an interesting collection of Republican and contemporary Peruvian paintings, as well as a collection of notes and coins from around the world.

The Church of San Pedro (corner of Jr. Azangaro and Jr. Ucayali) was built in the 17th century, and has an incredibly ornate interior, in stark contrast to its simple exterior. Near San Pedro, on Jr. Ucayali, is the Palacio Torre Tagle (**), which now houses the Foreign Ministry. This is a fine example of colonial architecture, and the carved balcony is superb. Unfortunately, since the taking of the Japanese Embassy, it has not been possible to see the interior of the building. There is a small Naval Museum at Jr. Miro Quesada 170.

Probably the most interesting building in Lima is the Monasterio de San Francisco (***) (corner of Jr. Ancash and Jr. Lampa, open Monday-Sunday 7am-12pm, 4.30pm-8pm, entry $1.50 for guided tour). The only way to visit the monastery is on a guided tour, which lasts about 45 minutes. The monastery was originally built in 1669, and has had to be restored many times due to earthquakes. The interior of the monastery is of great interest, and should not be missed. The carved choir stalls are beautiful, but it is the library that has the finest carvings, including an outstanding wooden ceiling from 1625. The library has 25,000 leather-bound books, and 6,000 parchments. The monastery also houses a fine art collection, including work by the school of Rubens. The highlight of the monastery is, however, the catacombs. These were used as Lima's cemetery until the early 19th century, and 15,000 people were buried in the catacombs. Now there are thousands of skulls and skeletons on display.

Across the river, over the Stone Bridge, dating from 1610, is the district of Rímac. This was a fashionable area in the 17th century, and although it is now quite dangerous, you should not have any problems in daylight. The Plaza de Acho (Jr. Hualgayoc 332) is the oldest bullring in the Americas, built in 1766, although remodelled in 1944. It can seat 13,000 and still hosts important bullfights every year in October and November. There is a bullfighting museum (**) (Monday-Friday 9am-6pm, Saturday 10am-6pm, entry $1.50) near the ring, which contains many of the costumes worn by famous bullfighters, and many posters and paintings relating to bullfighting, including a Picasso sketch and etching, and a copy of a Goya. Included in the entry price is entry to the ring itself, where the bull enclosure and the matadors’ chapel can be seen. The Alameda de los Descalzos is a 17th century park, which has not been well cared for. Nearby is the Monasterio de los Descalzos (**) (Alameda de los Descalzos, 9.30am-1pm, 3pm-6pm, closed Tuesdays, entry $1.50 including guided tour) with a fine collection of religious paintings, including some Murillos and Bittis, and many paintings from the Cusqueña, Limeña and Quiteña schools. In Ricardo Palma’s book Tradiciones Peruanas there is a story related to one of the paintings, Miguel de Santiago’s Señor de los Tradiciones. This tells of the painter, in a moment of madness, placing a knife in the back of his model of Christ to get a truly anguished look on his face. When he realised what he had done, the model was already dead. The monastery was founded in 1595 by the Spaniard Francisco Solano and the Italian Andrea Corso, and has some pretty cloisters. Near the monastery is Cerro San Cristóbal, where there is a small museum with occasional exhibitions and a good view over the city. It is rather dangerous, however.

East of the Plaza Mayor, on Jr. Junín crossing Av. Abancay, is the Peruvian Congress building. Opposite this is the Museo de La Inquisición (***) (Jr. Junín 548, Tel 428 7980, 9am-5.30pm, free guided tour every 20 minutes). The church in Lima was all-powerful, and Lima was the last city to abolish the Inquisition, only abandoning the practice in 1820. From the date of its inauguration in 1569 to its abolition, the inquisition in Peru executed 32 people, although far more were tried and tortured. The museum gives an interesting insight into the processes of the inquisition, and has some models of inquisition torture practices. The building should not be missed for the incredible carved roof in the courtroom. This is made up of 33,000 pieces of wood, and there are no nails – everything fits together like a giant jigsaw puzzle. Tours of the building are available in Spanish, English, French, Italian and Portuguese.

A couple of blocks from the Museo de La Inquisición, on Jr. Capon (Jr. Ucayali block 7), is Lima’s China Town, where there is a Chinese arch and a couple of pedestrian streets with lots of restaurants and other Chinese shops (although the opium dens have gone), which would not look out of place in any China Town around the world.

From the Plaza Mayor, Jirón de la Unión leads to the Plaza San Martín. The street has become a pleasant pedestrian shopping area, although there are a few too many fast food restaurants. The Museo Josefina Ramos de Cox (*) (Jr. de la Unión 554, Tel 427 4961, Monday-Saturday 10am-12.30pm, 2pm-7.30pm, Sunday 10am-12.30pm, 2pm-5pm, $0.60) is a small museum dedicated to pre-Hispanic cultures in the Lima area. Although explanations are good, the collection of textiles and ceramics is rather poor.

The Plaza San Martín is a pleasant square, with a statue of General San Martín, who liberated Peru, in the centre. Further down Jr. de la Union is Paseo de La República and Plaza Grau, a rather dangerous area after dark. The Sheraton Hotel is here, as is the Museo de Arte Italiana (**) (Paseo de la República 250, Tel 423 9932, Monday-Friday 10am-5pm, entry $1). This has a small, but interesting, collection of late 19th and early 20th century Italian paintings and sculptures. A bit further down from the Museo de Arte Italiana is the Museo de Arte (**) (Paseo Colón 125, Tel 423 4732, 10am-1pm, 2pm-5pm, closed Wednesday, $2, free on Monday). This is housed in a wonderful republican building, and has an interesting collection of colonial paintings from the Cusqueña and Limeña schools, as well as many stern republican portraits and scenes from daily life. There is a section with some modern Peruvian paintings, and a small archaeology sector with ceramics and textiles. West of Plaza Grau is Plaza Bolognesi. There is not much to see here, although there are some grand, but dilapidated, buildings.

Miraflores

Miraflores is now the cultural heart of Lima, with much of the city’s social and shopping scene set here. Parque Kennedy is the social centre of Miraflores, with many cafes, restaurants and shops. Av. Larco, on the coast, has a modern shopping centre and there are several upmarket hotels here. There are a number of tourist attractions in Miraflores, including the Huaca Pucallana (General Borgoño 800, turn left at Av. Arequipa cuadra 44), a pre-Inca temple with a small site museum. There are a couple of good, private museum collections in Miraflores. The Enrico Poli Museum (Lord Cochrane 466, T 422 2437. open Mon-Sun, guided tours only, $10 per person, minimum 5 people per tour. Phone for an appointment. Last tour 4pm) has one of the best private collections of archaeological artefacts in Lima, although it is rather expensive. The Museo Amano (Retiro 160, off 11th block of Av. Angamos, Miraflores, T 441 2909) has a good collection of textiles, mainly from the Chancay culture. The museum is open in the afternoons only and can only be visited by appointment.

Barranco

Barranco is a pleasant suburb of Lima that has kept its character much better than most of the city, and is the bohemian heart of the city. Situated on the seafront, the area has the feel of a small town, separate from Lima. Barranco is one of Lima’s main nightspots, and there are plenty of good bars and discos in the area, which come to life at night. During the day, however, Barranco is a relaxed, tranquil place, almost like a town stopped in time, making a nice escape from the rest of Lima, and it can also be a nice place to stay if wanting to get away from the bustle of the city.
 
The Puente de Suspiros (bridge of sighs) is a small bridge with a nice view out to sea. There is an operational tram on Av. Pedro de Osma, which is now only used for tourist rides for $0.50. There are a few museums in the area, the most important of which is the Museo Pedro de Osma (**) (Pedro de Osma 421, Tel 467 0915, Tue-Sun 10.30am-1.30pm, 2.30pm-6.30pm, $3), with an interesting collection of colonial paintings, mostly from the Cusqueña school. Additionally, on or near the main square are the Museo Galería Arte Popular de Ayacucho (Mon-Sat 9am-7pm) and the Museo de Electricidad (Av. Pedro de Osma 105, Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, free).

The main street in Barranco is Av. Grau, where most of the banks and shops are concentrated. There is also a reasonable food market on the 5th block of Av. Grau. Barranco is very close to Miraflores, and there are plenty of combis to and from Larcomar and Miraflores.

San Isidro

San Isidro is the financial heart of Lima, and also has some of Lima’s best hotels and restaurants. It is a pleasant place to stay, containing some pleasant parks, and there are a small number of attractions, including, the Huaca Huallamarca (*) (Nicolás de Piérola 201, open Tuesday – Sunday, 9am-5pm, entrance $2), a restored pre-Inca temple. There is a small museum at the entrance.

Callao

Callao is the port of Lima, and the area is not really a tourist attraction. However, there are a couple of military and naval museums, and it is possible to go on a boat tour to the Islas Palomino, a group of islands 30 minutes from Lima where there are sea lions and sea birds. Expensive cruises to the islands can be arranged at Av. Arequipa 4964, office 202 in Miraflores (T 910 8396). The military prison island of El Frontón is also close to Callao. This was Peru’s version of Alcatraz, and was used to hold high security prisoners, including terrorists in the 1980s. Many of the terrorists rebelled in the late 1980s, and Peru’s then president, Alán García, sent planes to bomb the island, resulting in the death of dozens of prisoners.

Museums

****Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología y Historia del Peru
Plaza Bolívar, Pueblo Libre T 463 5070
(Tuesday-Sunday, 9am – 5pm, $3)
This is the most interesting archaeological museum in Lima, with a fine collection of ceramics and many superb Paracas textiles. The museum also contains various important stone pieces, including the wonderful carved Stella Raymondi and the Tello Obelisk, both from Chavín de Huántar. There are a number of fine gold and silver pieces also on display. The museum presents a history of Peru, starting with early pre-Hispanic cultures, advancing to the Incas. Although the collection is not as extensive as that of the Museo de la Nación, the pieces are generally of a higher quality and better displayed and illuminated. A visit to the museum is highly recommended, especially if you are planning on travelling to any of Peru’s archaeological sites, as the collection gives a good insight into the context of different pre-Hispanic cultures. In addition to the pre-Hispanic content of the museum, there is a section dedicated to the colonial and republican eras, with furniture and paintings from the period. There are some very interesting descriptions of the development of indigenous Peruvians after the arrivals of the Spanish, and the section is worth visiting. The museum is in Pueblo Libre, and is rather difficult to get to by public transport, although you can take a bus marked Todo Brasil, and ask the driver to drop you off at Av. General Vivanco, from where it is a five-block walk. A taxi from Miraflores will cost about $2. The Rafael Larco Herrera museum is a 15-minute walk from the museum, and the route is clearly marked by a blue line on the pavement.
 
***Museo Rafael Larco Herrera
Avenida Bolívar 1515, Pueblo Libre  T 461 1312 
http://museolarco.perucultural.org.pe
(Mon-Sun 9am-6pm, entrance $6)
This is a museum with a wonderful collection of ceramics. These are in excellent condition, and cover most of Peru’s pre-Hispanic cultures, especially the Moche and Chimú cultures. There are 45,000 pieces in the museum, although only a small fraction of these are actually on display. The rest are housed in the storeroom, which can be visited and the pieces seen. The museum also has a large collection of erotic ceramics, which are housed in a separate section of the museum where admission of children is prohibited. These are mostly from the Moche culture, and served different purposes, including humour and warnings about deviant behaviour. There are some pieces from the Salinar culture, which are said to be the first erotic representations in the world. In addition to the ceramics, the museum also houses some Chavín stone heads, some metalwork, some rather poor textiles and some excellent gold, silver and turquoise jewellery. The pieces in the museum are well displayed and there are good explanations, and a guide can be hired. To get to the museum you can catch a combi to Av. Brasil and get off at Av. Bolívar. From there catch another combi to the museum. A taxi from Miraflores will cost about $2.

****Museo de Oro
Avenida Alonso de Molina 1100, Monterrico T 437 7797
Open Mon-Sun 12pm – 7pm. Entrance $7. Guide $12.
The famous gold museum in Lima is rightly one of the city’s top tourist attractions, and contains an enormous collection of 10,000 gold, silver and copper pieces, some of which are excellent. The museum was briefly closed in 2001, and an investigation is currently under progress into the possibility of many of the pieces on display being fakes. However, the museum is still well worth visiting. In addition to the precious metals, the museum has a fine collection of textiles, stone carvings and ceramics, including a large collection of erotic ceramics. However, the overall collection is poorly displayed and has appalling labelling (no doubt to encourage you to take one of their rather expensive guides).

The collection contains pieces from most of the important Peruvian cultures, including Chavín, Vicus, Moche, Chimú, Inca, Chancay, Paracas, Nazca and Tihuanaco. The star of the show is the Chimú gold Tumi, a 20cm-tall ceremonial knife, replicas of which can be found throughout Peru. Many of the pieces are often abroad at temporary exhibitions, but the collection is so large that this does not really matter.

The collection is completely private and has been largely built by buying from tomb robbers. Although purchasing such pieces no doubt encourages the activity of looting, the market for such treasures is large and it is likely that they would have been taken anyway. Additionally, by buying the pieces, Miguel Mujica Gallo ensures that they are on display for the public.
 
It takes several hours to see the whole collection, including the textiles and ceramics, and there is also a collection of armour and weaponry from Peru and around the world.  There are several upmarket jewellery and craft shops in the grounds of the museum.

The museum is far from most areas visited by travellers, and the easiest way to get there is by taxi. A taxi should charge less than $2 from Miraflores, and a bit more from the centre. Otherwise, take a combi from Av. Angamos in Miraflores that goes down Av. Primavera. Ask to get off at Cuadra 18 of Av. Primavera in Monterrico.

***Museo de la Nación
Av. Javier Prado Este 2465, San Borja T 476 9878
(Tuesday-Sunday, 9am-6pm, $2, $1 for students with ID)
This is a large museum with an interesting collection of artefacts from pre-Hispanic Peru. There is a good display of the development of the different cultures right up to the Incas, and the museum gives a clear idea of the extensive nature of pre-Hispanic Peru, and the importance of the north coast especially. However, many of the displays are badly lit and the explanations are often inadequate. Additionally, many of the most interesting items are copies, with the originals in other museums, such as the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología y Historia del Peru. The museum is not particularly close to any other areas of interest in Lima, so a taxi or a bus will have to be taken to reach it. Take any combi marked Todo Javier Prado (Este) and ask the driver to drop you off at the museum. A taxi from the centre or Miraflores should cost about $1.50.

There are several other attractions in Lima, including the Museo de Historia Natural (Avenida Arenales 1250, Lince T 471 0117, open Mon – Fri 9-4pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 9am-1pm, $0.70), with a decent collection of flora and fauna from around Peru, and the Parque de las Leyendas, a zoo in San Miguel with a good collection of animals from around Peru, although the conditions many of the animals are kept in is not good.

Excursions from Lima

***Pachacámac
Pachacámac district, near Lurín. Mon-Sun 9am-5pm, entrance $2 ($1 students)
 
The archaeological ruins at Pachacámac are the most important in the Lima area, and although most parts are in a poor state of repair, several areas have been restored, giving a good idea about the complex. The site is mostly adobe, although there are several stone structures. There is a small, interesting museum at the entrance to the site, with ceramics and weavings, as well as a wonderful totem idol.

Pachacámac was first occupied around 200AD by people from the Lima culture, who dedicated it to Pachacámac, the creator god. Around 650AD the Wari culture took over the site. From 1000AD to 1450AD the site was occupied by the Ishmay culture, which developed it into a major religious and ceremonial centre. The Inca occupation from 1450 until the arrival of the Spanish in 1532 added several new temples, including the Templo del Sol and the Templo de Acllahuasi. The former has a similar layout to Qorikancha, the sun temple in Cusco, and is worth visiting. The other area worth visiting is the impressive Templo de Acllahuasi, the chosen women dedicated to the sun. This was restored by the Peruvian archaeologist Julio Tello. The rest of the site is in a rather poor state of repair.

Lurín, the town next to Pachacámac, is a pleasant place with many nurseries and show horses. Ask at the ruins if there are any displays.

To visit the site takes about 2 hours, or 1 hour if you have a car to drive you around. Many agencies in Lima organise tours to the site, although hiring a taxi to take you there and back works out cheaper. A taxi from Miraflores to the site costs about $5, or $15 return, including time spent driving round the ruins, stopping off at interesting points. Combis from Av. Grau to Lurín pass the ruins – ask the driver to drop you off. A trip to Pachacámac can be combined with a trip to Pucusana, a pleasant fishing village, for a nice day out. Combis for Pucusana pass the ruins.

Cieneguilla
Cieneguilla is a small town in a pleasant valley along the Lurín River, about 30km from Lima. The town is above the garúa that hangs over Lima in the winter and is a nice escape from the city. There are many good country-style restaurants serving traditional food, including Pachamanca, an Andean dish of meat and vegetables cooked with hot stones. These are very popular with Limeños at weekends. One of the best restaurants is La Mesa de Piedra ($$$-$$$$) (km 27.5, Carretera Lima-Huarochirí) with good food and a nice garden with a good swimming pool and a bullring. Combis for Cieneguilla leave from Javier Prado Este and take about 1½ hours. A taxi takes about 50 minutes and costs about $7.

Cajamarquilla
10km outside of Lima, on the road to La Oroya, lie the ruins of Cajamarquilla, a pre-Hispanic commercial centre covering an area of 6,000m2.

Canta
On a paved road 100km north-east of Lima is the town of Canta surrounded by pretty mountains and green terraces. The Laguna Chuchún ha sgood fishing, and 3km from Canta is the traditional village of Obrajillo. There is good camping in the area, and horses can be hired. The Cantamarca ruins are 10km from Canta. There are also two forests of Puya Raymondi plants, including one above the town on Huaros. Buses for Canta leave from the Universidad de Ingenería in Lima at 6.30am.

Beaches

There are many beaches in the city itself, but these are polluted, dirty and dangerous. Much better is to head to one of the beaches to the north or to the south of Lima. These are very popular in the summer and become very full.

Information used with the kind permission of www.llamatravel.com - holidays to Peru from £799. © Llama Travel Ltd (UK).
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