Lima / Cusco / Machu Picchu / Inca Trail / Arequipa / Puno / Iquitos / Manu / Madre de Dios / Huaraz / Northern Highlands / Northern Coast

The small town of Machu Picchu, in the valley below the ruins, was known as Aguas Calientes until the late 1990s when it was decided that the name should be changed to that of the ruins. The town is located in an incredibly beautiful area, surrounded by jungle-covered mountains and next to the wonderful Urubamba River. The town itself is not particularly attractive, although it is quite interesting, mainly due to the railway line. There are no cars in the town, apart from the buses to shuttle visitors up to the ruins, and so the ‘main street’, as it were, is in fact the railway line. People wander up and down the track, jumping across the platform of the station, and there are even a couple of fruit sellers next to the line. When a train comes, the bustle on the platform, which is the main street’s pavement, is wonderful. If it were not for tourism, the whole place could almost be out of a Gabriel García Márquez novel.

Machu Picchu town - Aguas Calientes Attractions

Aguas Calientes has one main attraction, the thermal baths (**). These, located at the top of the hill, are open pools with a stunning view. Many walkers like to come here and rest their weary bones after the Inca Trail. The hot waters are reputedly medicinal. Walking up past the hot baths there is a very pretty waterfall

Machu Picchu is possibly the most famous archaeological site in all of the Americas, and is also one of the most beautiful places anywhere on earth. The archaeological ruins combine perfectly with the incredible mountain scenery to present an unforgettable sight, and not even the swathes of tourists who visit can spoil this. It is no wonder than hundreds of thousands of people come here every year. Machu Picchu is actually the name of the tall mountain to the south of the ruins, and means ‘old peak’. This is in contrast to Huayna Picchu, the pointed mountain to the north of the ruins, which means ‘young peak’.

The exact purpose of Machu Picchu is unknown, largely as it was never discovered by the Spanish and so no chronicler ever recorded any information about it. However, the high quality of the stonework and the large number of important temples and fountains, as well as the other Inca sites nearby, strongly indicate that the whole area, and Machu Picchu in particular, was a very important ceremonial centre. Hiram Bingham, who rediscovered the site in 1911, claimed that the site was a refuge of the Acllas, the Inca Virgins of the Sun, as his analysis of the skeletons found at the site indicated that the vast majority were female. However, this theory has been somewhat discredited by more recent investigations which claim that the skeletons were in fact evenly split between males and females.

Why this remote location was chosen for such an important site is unclear, although there are some interesting theories, both ceremonial and practical. Firstly, the location is aligned with many of the important Apus (holy mountains) in the area, obviously an important factor for a religious site. Secondly, the elevation of the site means that there is less chance of it being damaged by landslides, which are very common in the valley below. Thirdly, Machu Picchu is strategically very well located, being high for defensive purposes and giving a clear view into three different valleys. Finally, the views from Machu Picchu are incredibly beautiful, and it is likely that the Incas greatly appreciated this.

Machu Picchu was never discovered by the Spanish, which seems remarkable given their ability to discover just about every other important Inca site. As the Spanish had large numbers of the indigenous population working for them, who were prepared to help them in any way, this appears even more incredible. The only possible explanation would be that ordinary people at the time of the Spanish invasion were not aware of Machu Picchu’s existence. There are two possible reasons for this. Firstly, it is likely that Machu Picchu was built during the reign of Pachacuteq in the mid 15th century and was possibly one of his Royal Estates. It is possible, therefore, that the site was abandoned some time after the Inca’s death, and was therefore largely forgotten and irrelevant when the Spanish arrived. The other explanation is that as the site was so ceremonially important, it was only used by the Inca elite, and the general populous was unaware of its existence. Therefore, when the Spanish arrived and the Inca nobles saw the fate of Cusco and other important sites nearby, they completely abandoned Machu Picchu, ensuring that the Spanish would not discover it.

Whatever the reason for its abandonment, the site was never looted by the Spanish, and it is therefore the best-preserved Inca complex in existence. However, it would be wrong to say that it lay undiscovered until 1911 when Hiram Bingham came across it. There are records of the name Machu Picchu appearing in documents in the 19th century, and even before, although this does not mean that it was known that there were archaeological ruins there. However, the site was known by local people living in the area, and there were even families living in the ruins, using some of the open spaces for agriculture. It was through these locals, in fact, that Bingham came to visit Machu Picchu.

Hiram Bingham, a professor of Latin American history from the University of Yale, became interested in the Inca culture on a trip to Peru in 1908. When he returned to the country in 1911 he was determined to discover the site of Vilcabamba, the last refuge of the Incas when fleeing from the Spanish. The North American rector of the university in Cusco told Bingham about rumours of some unexplored ruins down the Urubamba Valley. Bingham travelled down the valley by mule, camping at Mandor Pampa on July 23, where he met Melchor Arteaga, who agreed to guide him from the valley up to the ruins. There was no path and the thick jungle vegetation made for a very tough climb, and on the morning of July 24 the weather was not good. However, Bingham agreed to pay Arteaga the sum of one silver dollar to accompany him, and later that morning Bingham emerged onto the ruins. He spent most of that day there, before returning to the valley and then Cusco.

Bingham recognised the importance of the site, and decided that this had to be the city of Vilcabamba for which he was searching. He sent an expedition to Machu Picchu later that year to clear part of the ruins, and returned himself the following year, clearing much of the site and taking many photos. Some of these were published in the National Geographic in 1913, ensuring the worldwide fame of both Machu Picchu and Hiram Bingham, who went on to become a US Senator. Although it is clear that Hiram Bingham was not the first person to visit Machu Picchu since its abandonment by the Incas, he did recognise its importance and brought it to the world’s attention. Therefore, he is rightfully credited as its discoverer.

Although Bingham claimed that Machu Picchu was the city of Vilcabamba, it is now accepted that the site at Espiritu Pampa was in fact the jungle city occupied by the Incas when fighting the Spanish. Ironically, Bingham came across the ruins at Espiritu Pampa on the same expedition on which he discovered Machu Picchu, and dismissed them as minor. Nevertheless, the idea of Machu Picchu as Vilcabamba endured for many decades after its discovery.

It is now generally accepted that Machu Picchu was an important ceremonial site, and possibly also an important agricultural centre. There is speculation that Machu Picchu was used to grow a special high-altitude variety of coca leaf for use in religious ceremonies, although such a variety does not exist anymore, and there is no evidence that the site was used for this.

The Ruins

Although there is much to see around Machu Picchu, the most important temples and structures all lie in a relatively small area (about 200m by 400m) in front of Huayna Picchu, the pointed mountain directly behind the ruins. It is therefore possible to explore the main areas of the site in under two hours. However, to explore the ruins fully, and to visit the more remote parts of the site, a full day or longer is required. The different areas of Machu Picchu preserve the names given to them by Hiram Bingham, despite these being wildly inaccurate in many cases.

Entering the site, you pass vast tracts of agricultural terracing, which was probably used for the production of food as well as maize for ceremonial chicha. Passing the terracing, there is a very fine fountain on the left. Next to this is the curved Temple of the Sun, where the finest stonework in the ruins is found. This temple would have been used for observing the sun, and the window in the eastern face of the temple aligns perfectly with the rising sun at the winter solstice. Next to this is a very fine building called The Princess’s Palace, although given its proximity to the Temple of the Sun it is far more likely that this was the residence of an important priest.

Climbing the stairs next to the Temple of the Sun brings you to the quarry, where much of the stone for the constructions was obtained. Next to the quarry is the Temple of the Three Windows, where there are indeed three temples facing east. It is likely this temple was related to the three worlds of the Incas, Hanan Pacha, the world of above (representing the gods of the sun, moon and stars); Kay Pacha, this world (representing this life); and Uqhu Pacha, the world of below (representing death). The chakana, the Andean cross, with three levels, was a symbol used to represent the three worlds. Next to one of the windows is a stone half of a chakana. At the winter solstice, the shadow formed by this stone completes the cross.

Climbing up from the Temple of the Three Windows brings you to the highest point of the ruins, the Intihuatana, which literally means the hitching post of the sun. This was used by the Incas to ‘tie’ the sun to the earth, and was used to measure the position on the sun in relation to the earth, and was useful for giving information on when the seasons changed, necessary for agriculture. Intihuatanas were found at the majority of important Inca sites, although the Spanish destroyed or damaged almost all of them. The Intihuatana at Machu Picchu is particularly important, as it was the only one not discovered by the Spanish. However, despite surviving the Spanish conquest, the Intihuatana has not survived capitalism as well. In 2000, while filming a Cusqueña beer commercial, the crane with the cameraman fell onto the stone, chipping one of the corners of the Intihuatana. Although the company was fined heavily, the stone is permanently damaged.

The Intihuatana works by casting shadows that line up in different positions at different times of the year. The winter solstice in June was the most important time, as the sun fell directly onto the stone. The summer solstice in December was far less important for the Incas, especially here, as the weather was almost invariably cloudy, so the sun’s position was impossible to measure. An interesting aspect to note about the Intihuatana at Machu Picchu is that it is not completely vertical but tilts 13% to the north. This is the exact latitude of Machu Picchu south of the equator.

Across the main plaza is a group of simpler buildings that probably served as a general residential area. To the south of this is the area known as the Temple of the Condor, although Bingham called this the Prison, due to some rocks which looked as if they were used to tie up prisoners. However, it is known that the Incas did not have prisons, as death was the punishment for most transgressions. This was almost certainly a temple to the condor, and a carving of the head of a condor can be seen on the ground, with the rocks in the temple forming the outstretched wings of the bird.

Apart from the main body of the ruins, there are several areas in Machu Picchu worth seeing, and visiting these areas is a good way of getting away from the bulk of the crowds. The most commonly visited of these is the peak of Huayna Picchu, the pointed mountain directly behind the open plaza. At first sight it would appear to be impossible to climb this mountain, and the terracing visible near its summit seems an impossible feat. However, there is a well-defined path, which, although steep, is not particularly difficult to climb. The walk to the top takes around 40 minutes to one hour and offers a superb alternate view of the ruins. To climb Huayna Picchu you must register at the hut by the entrance to the mountain. This is only possible until 1pm. Part of the way up the climb to Huayna Picchu, a trail forks off to the left. If you follow this trail for about 1½ to 2 hours, along a relatively narrow ledge, you come to the far side of the mountain. Here, there is a fine building, called the Temple of the Moon, although it is unlikely it had anything to do with observing the moon.

Another climb that is possible by the ruins is up to the top of the Machu Picchu Mountain, to the south of the ruins. There is also a trail that leads behind the mountain to the Inca Drawbridge. Here, the path becomes very narrow with a substantial drop to your side. The drawbridge itself is a gap in the path that the Inca’s left to prevent unwanted visitors crossing. The gap was bridged by logs that could be easily withdrawn. The drawbridge is now sealed off after a tourist fell to his death a number of years ago.

Another common side-trip from the main ruins is up to the Intipunku, the sun gate, about 30 minutes from the main ruins. This is where the Inca Trail emerges, offering hikers their first view of Machu Picchu. The small ruins themselves are not very interesting, but the view is superb.

From the Intipunku it is possible to carry on to the spectacular ruins of Wiñay Wayna, about 1½ hours further on. However, an additional permit, costing $5, must be purchased at the entrance to Machu Picchu for this. The return journey, including time to explore the ruins of Wiñay Wayna, takes around four to five hours and is highly recommended if you have not walked the Inca Trail. If you are planning on doing this it is best to set out in the morning in order to be back in Machu Picchu before it gets too late. The gate from Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu closes at 2.30pm, and it is impossible to return to Machu Picchu after this. If you arrive after the gate has closed you will have to spend the night at Wiñay Wayna.

Other attractions in the area

The ruins of Machu Picchu are the reason visitors come here, and most people spend only one night in the town, or even visit on a day trip from Cusco. However, the whole area is very beautiful, and there are many wonderful walks in the area passing many waterfalls are streams. There is also some good wildlife that can be seen, with many birds, including the cock-of-the-rock, and many, many orchids. The Mandor Waterfall can be reached in a couple of hours, and it is also possible to climb to the top of Putucusi, the peak opposite Machu Picchu on the other side of the Urubamba River.

Information used with the kind permission of www.llamatravel.com - holidays to Peru from £799. © Llama Travel Ltd (UK).
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