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Home > Puno Tourist Information > Places of Interest > The Islands of Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca and around
Lake Titicaca is famous around the world as being the world’s highest navigable lake, at over 3,800m above sea level. There are many other lakes in the world higher than this, including several in Peru, although Lake Titicaca is probably the highest with regular boat services. The lake itself is immense, with an area of over 8,000 square kilometres, and if it were not for the fact that it is almost four kilometres high, it could almost be mistaken for the ocean.
The Lake has become one of Peru’s main tourist destinations, and taking a boat ride on this incredible body of water offers splendid views of the snow-capped Cordillera Real rising over the deep blue waters. The islands on the lake, as well as being very beautiful, provide a wonderful insight into the traditional life of the inhabitants, with many of these living in a similar fashion to their ancestors hundreds of years ago. The most interesting of the islands include the amazing Uros islands, where people live on floating bundles of reeds, and Taquile and Amantaní, where traditional crafts still dominate the way of life.
There are also many interesting archaeological sites near the Lake, including Sillustani, where the finely worked funerary towers rise out of the altiplano, and the Temple of Fertility, with dozens of stone phalluses emerging from the ground. The highland towns, where colonial churches mix with ancient traditions, are a fascinating look into a part of Peru few people experience.
Lake Titicaca and Islands
Lake Titicaca, with an area of 8,400 square kilometres, is the largest lake in South America, and the deepest point of the lake measures 284m. The lake is one of the main tourist destinations in Peru, and most travellers who come to this part of Peru take a trip on the lake and visit the islands. The beautiful dark blue waters, against the brown of the surrounding hills and the white of the Cordillera Real in Bolivia, is very beautiful. However, the lake offers more than just wonderful views, and the islands are the home to some of the most ancient traditions in Peru, with many different peoples living in the area. The area around Lake Titicaca, with the exception of the Amantaní and Taquile islands, where Quechua is spoken, are predominantly Aymara speaking. However, the area to the west of the lake is Quechua, and the lake is the meeting point of these two cultures. The Uros culture also comes from this area, although it has largely died out, and the Uros Islands are now Aymara speaking.
The most famous islands on Lake Titicaca are the floating islands of the Uros. These artificial islands are made by tying together totora reeds, which grow in the lake, to create the base of the islands, as well huts, furniture and boats. The totora reed is undoubtedly the life stay of the islanders, even serving as food, as the tip of the reed can be eaten. The islands are anchored to the bed of the lake, which is only 4m below the surface, to stop them floating away. The islands have developed somewhat in recent years, and there is now a hospital, a school a hotel and even electricity on some of the islands. There are 45 floating islands in total, most of them relatively close to Puno, of which about 60% are visited by tourists.
The origin of the islands is uncertain, and there are two main theories. The first claims that the Uros people were unhappy with being dominated by the Incas, and did not appreciate their hard work ethic. Therefore, they escaped from the mainland to live on the lake, creating the artificial islands. The other theory claims that the Uros fled to the lake when the Spanish arrived and forced the indigenous population to work in the mines. Either way, the islands were likely to have been formed in the 16th century, around the time of the Spanish conquest. Why they chose artificial islands rather than real ones is unclear, although it is likely that the larger islands were all inhabited already.
There is a common theory among many travellers that the islands now simply exist for tourism, and that the visiting the islands is no more authentic than visiting Disney World. However, although it is true that tourism has had a large impact on the life of the islanders, the common perception that the islands are just a tourist attraction is erroneous. After all, 40% of the islands do not receive any tourists. Many of the islanders still live using traditional customs, and fishing is the most important activity for them, with the daily catches being sold in the market in Puno. When you visit the Uros, you will notice that there are only women and children on the islands. This is because the men are busy fishing on the lake.
There used to be a big problem on the islands with children begging for money or sweets, or islanders demanding payment for photographs. However, this has decreased dramatically in recent years, and you are unlikely to be hassled. Nevertheless, the islanders still use tourism for much of their income, and they sell many crafts made from the totora reeds, as well as offer tourist services. The most common of these is a boat ride in traditional totora boats, which costs around $1 per person. These boats, with beautiful puma heads at the bow, used to be used by locals for fishing. However, modern rowing boats are now used by the islanders, and the totora boats are solely for tourists.
Although visiting the islands is unlikely to provide a blinding insight into the way of like of authentic Titicaca people, it is still an interesting experience.
Taquile
Taquile is the most visited island on the Peruvian side of the lake, receiving several hundred visitors per day during the high season. Most, however, only visit on day trips and few spend the night, with most people preferring to stay on Amantaní. The island is only 8 square kilometres, and rises to 4,015m, 200m above the level of the lake.
The views from the island are spectacular, with the green vegetation contrasting with the deep blue waters of the lake and the white mountains of the Cordillera Blanca on the horizon. There are several Inca and Tihuanaco ruins on the islands, mostly at the peaks, and it is easy to visit these, although more difficult to get any information about them.
Taquile is the most developed of the Peruvian Titicaca islands, and there is a hospital and a school here. There is also a hostel where you can spend the night, although staying with a family is recommended. If you want to stay with a family, either organise this through an agency in Puno or talk to the guard at the tourist control point when you arrive on the island.
The island has been inhabited since Tihuanaco times, and was also occupied by the Incas. When the Spanish conquered Peru, the Catalan Pedro Gomez de Taquila arrived on the island, giving it his name and several Catalan traditions. For example, the floppy woollen hats worn by the men are of Catalan origin, although these have been adapted to the island. There are three different types of hats denoting married men, single men and men of important rank on the island. The islanders still lead traditional lives, and handcrafts continue to be one of the most important activities on Taquile. It is common to see the men of the island knitting while walking around, usually making the floppy hats they wear. Many of the crafts are for sale in the town, with a co-operative fixing the prices, so you cannot haggle. The quality of the knitted items is high, and so are the prices.
Most people spend around three hours on the island, giving a chance to wander round and have lunch. This is fine if you do not have any more time. However, if you do have the opportunity, you will get much more out of your visit if you spend at least one night here.
Amantaní is the largest island on Lake Titicaca with an area of approximately 24 square kilometres. The island is also the highest point of the lake, with the summit of the tallest hill on Amantaní rising to 4,200m, almost 400m above the level of the lake. 5,000 people live in the island’s 8 different communities, and if you spend a night on the island you will be assigned a family to stay with in one of the communities.
It is very difficult to visit the island on a day-trip because of the distances involved, so most people end up staying the night. This is the most interesting aspect of visiting Amantaní, as you do get a good idea of what life on the islands must have been like in the past. Families live in basic accommodation, and there is no electricity on the island, although a few of the houses have solar panels. There was electricity on the island until 1999, although it has now been disconnected. When you stay with the family you will be provided with three meals – lunch, dinner and breakfast, cooked on wood-burning stoves in traditional kitchens. The food is basic and vegetarian, and it is very tasty, mainly using crops grown on the island itself.
Obviously, tourism has had a significant impact on the islanders’ lifestyles, and many families receive tourists every day during the high season. There is a traditional dance held in a community centre every evening, mainly for the benefit of tourists. However, this disco, as it is known, is also an important social event for the islanders, and the experience of staying with a family is quite authentic. The people on the islands speak Spanish and Quechua, and virtually none of them speak any English. Therefore, you will get much more out of the visit if you can speak Spanish, as the locals are very friendly and talkative. It is also a good idea to take a small gift for your family, possibly some candles or fruit.
The island has very beautiful views over the lake, with the snow-capped Cordillera Real in Bolivia peeking over the horizon. It also has two Tihuanaco ruins on the two peaks of the island, dating from around 500AD. These ruins are now called by the Quechua names of Pacha Mama and Pacha Tata despite the Tihuanaco people speaking Aymara, and the names are recently introduced. Originally they were known as Llakistiti and Kwanos. Both sites are used in a festival on January 20, St James’ Day, to see how the crops for the following year will turn out. Amantaní was not occupied by the Incas.
If you are planning on visiting the island to find solitude and escape the tourist masses, you are likely to be disappointed. In the high season over 100 visitors arrive daily and spend the night on the island. You will see just about all of these at sunset, when most people gather at the ruins of Pacha Tata to watch this beautiful event. However, you are not likely to see any other travellers when you are with your family, as the houses are dispersed. The islands are very beautiful, and the experience of staying with a family is quite unique.
Close to the north-eastern shore of Lake Titicaca, just off the town of Conima next to the border with Bolivia, is the island of Suasi. This is far less visited than most of the other islands, and makes for a relaxing, beautiful stay on the lake. It is possible to stay on the island in the attractive Suasi Hotel Ecoturismo y Cultura, built entirely from local materials. The hotel has great views of the lake and also a good restaurant.
These two islands, with important Inca ruins, are on the Bolivian side of the lake, accessed from Copacabana.
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